Top 5 Herbs for Your Dog

For centuries animals have relied upon the medicinal powers of plants to assist in the healing of many aliments. They were instinctively drawn to herbs, grasses, seeds and roots in woodland and open ground to help everything from parasite control to intestinal discomfort.

Adding fresh, homegrown herbs to your dog’s meals can provide many benefits. They offer a gentle, cleansing and balancing effect to the body, provide phytonutrients and fibre, which in turn benefit the gut bacteria and add moisture to the diet of dogs that are fed dried food.

If you can pick a few herbs then immediately prepare and add them to your dog’s food, the nutritional benefits will be at their peak. Fed like this even a little goes a long way.

The herbs and wild ingredients mentioned below can be brought as young plants, sown as seeds, or foraged for.  

Even a sunny windowsill or balcony can be used to grow a few herbs. They just need a little well drained soil, water, some sun and a bit of care to give you a huge amount back.

Here are some of my favourites, which you can enjoy yourself and share with your dog.  

Parsley

If you only have room for one herb, then parsley would be the one.

The most common varieties are curly and flat leaf, and the leaf, stem and root can be used. The flat leaf parsley is more closely related to the wild species.

It is traditionally used to support digestive and urinary tract issues and as a breath freshener. It is high in antioxidants such as beta-carotene and lycopene which help fight inflammation and used to support arthritic conditions.

Parsley is rich in vitamin A, C, B1, B2, K, calcium, riboflavin, potassium, iron, magnesium, manganese, niacin, phosphorous, fibre and chlorophyll.

Very finely chop the leaves and stalks or add into a blender with your dog’s normal vegetables. As a rough guide my Labradors would have a heaped tablespoon each, added in with their vegetables most days over the Summer.

 Thyme

Thyme has antimicrobial, expectorant and astringent qualities and can help soothe a cough or cold by loosening mucus.

Thyme has quite a strong flavour and aroma compared with the other herbs listed, so would be used a little more sparingly. This is one to introduce initially in tiny amounts to see if your dog likes the taste. They may however just enjoy the scent if you crush a few leaves and then offer your hand to sniff if they wish. The stems are generally too woody to use so just pick off a few of the tiny leaves instead.  

Dandelion

The humble dandelion is not only a friend to pollinators it is also a very good addition to our own and our dog’s diet.

The leaf has affinities with the liver, gall bladder and kidneys and act as a gentle blood cleanser, laxative and bitter tonic. Bitter tasting ingredients promote salivation which in turn improves digestion. Traditionally dandelion would be used alongside burdock root for a powerful combination.

The leaves are a rich source of vitamin A, D, K, B complex, Iron, Manganese, Phosphorous, Potassium and the flowers are a good source of Lecithin.

We can add the leaves and petals to salads or use in the same way as spinach. In spring and early summer, I pick and wash dandelion leaves and add to the dog’s vegetable blend, along with parsley, courgette, chard and a few lettuce leaves. This is all put in the blender with a tiny splash of water and whizzed to a thick smoothie consistency and makes up to 15% of the meal.

Nettle

The nettle is seen as “the enemy” to many gardeners, yet it not only provides a haven for wildlife it is also packed with nutrition and makes fantastic teas, soups, and pesto.

Rich in Iron, vitamin A, C, D and B complex, Silica, Calcium, Phosphorous, Magnesium, Beta-carotene and Potassium.

Only the tops of the nettles should be picked and used from early spring to around the end of May. As the plant matures it develops tiny crystalline particles which irritate the urinary tract and kidneys.

Nettles have natural antihistamine properties and can also be used as a coat rinse.

The process of drying or cooking the nettles neutralises their sting, although you will need gloves in order to pick them or they will definitely fight back!

Picked nettles can be dried for a couple of days on paper in the sun or if the whole stem is cut, hang upside down to dry in small bundles and just use the leaves from the tips. Once dried you can crumble them easily with your fingers.

 Fennel

Fennel is similar to dill in its appearance but has a strong aniseed scent and grows large fennel bulbs. The delicate, feathery leaves, seeds and root can be used and primarily taken to improve digestion, ease bloating, reflux, mild tummy ache and increase milk flow in nursing mothers. It is rich in vitamin C, A, calcium, iron and potassium. 

 Safety:

When harvesting any herb or wild ingredient there are a few things to consider so you can safely use them.

Firstly, it is essential to be able to accurately identify what you are picking. This can take a little time and the use of a good identification book is extremely helpful.

Always forage away from roadsides and arable crops, which will no doubt have been sprayed with chemicals or exposed to pollutants.

Caroline Hearn MICHT. Dip ICAT. MIAAT

Canine & Equine Sports & Remedial Massage and Holistic Therapist

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk

Canine Hydrotherapy, Underwater Treadmill verses Swimming

Hydrotherapy for Dogs

What is Hydrotherapy?

Hydrotherapy is a water-based therapy that provides prescriptive exercise which is functional without being painful. It can be used as a means of supporting dogs in a non weight bearing or partially weight bearing environment to allow movements that would not be possible on land, perhaps because of weakness or injury. To facilitate rehabilitation and conditioning, hydrotherapy uses key water properties, including:

Buoyancy: reduces the weight and concussion going through the limbs and makes movement easier

Hydrostatic Pressure: increases circulation and reduces inflammation, swelling and pain

Resistance: assists in restoring muscle strength, endurance, and cardiovascular fitness

Turbulence: the movement of the water which can create a more challenging environment – ideal for fitness patients.

Specific gravity: The ratio of body weight compared to the ratio of water; this helps with buoyancy.

Temperature: The warmth of the water helps in reducing swelling, inflammation, and pain, increasing blood flow, reducing muscle tension and spasms, increasing tissue extensibility, and promoting relaxation.

Underwater Treadmill Versus Swimming

Hydrotherapy typically involves either swimming in a pool or exercising on an underwater treadmill (UWTM). Both of which can be effective for increasing strength, joint range of motion, muscular endurance, cardiovascular endurance, and flexibility as well as reducing pain and effusion, and promoting psychological well-being. The decision about whether an UWTM or pool is most suitable for your dog is an important one that should be made on a case-by-case basis by a qualified Veterinary Physiotherapist or Hydrotherapist. Here are a few reasons why we may recommend one over the other:

Advantages: Underwater Treadmill

·         Allows for earlier rehabilitation following injury or surgery

·         Ideal for gait training and speeding up gait retraining – particularly useful for neurological patients to help with gait patterning with the support of the water. Interestingly, many neurological patients walk in water before they do on land.

·         Improved balance whilst walking

·         More suitable for certain clinical conditions and injuries that require more controlled movement versus swimming.

·         Ideal for dogs that are nervous about swimming – dogs often feel more relaxed when they can touch the floor so are less likely to panic

·         More natural gait pattern

·         Joint extension is more complete compared to swimming. This can be helpful in conditions such as hip dysplasia or hip arthritis whereby limb extension is often difficult for the dog.

·         Encourages equal weight bearing

·         Functional carry over to land is often quicker

·         The water height can be adjusted to decrease/increase weight bearing and achieve movements and muscle activation that we are targeting

·         Based on Wolf’s Law, weight bearing on the UWTM may encourage increased bone strength over swimming alone.

·         Allows observation from all sides

·         We can be more hands on to aid the dog’s gait and movement patterns

·         Speed, incline, and duration can be adjusted to suit the dog

·         More targeted muscle development

Disadvantages: Underwater Treadmill

·         Can strengthen gait abnormalities if not properly corrected by the Hydrotherapist

·         Not as suitable for amputees

·         Some dogs may be unsure about the movement of the belt or being confined in a smallish space

·         The retraction of the belt may cause too much strain on certain tissues if the Hydrotherapist does not provide appropriate support

Advantages: Swimming

·         Enables the dog to be completely non weight bearing - this removes all the forces and concussion through the joints which is useful when weight bearing is painful.

·         Great for core strengthening

·         Greater cardiovascular strengthening, weight loss and increasing overall fitness

·         Potentially more suitable for amputees and dogs unable to bear any weight of their own

 Disadvantages: Swimming

·         Not suitable for fearful or nervous swimmers

·         Unsuitable for many injuries in the early stages of rehabilitation. For example, in dogs who have recently had surgery for a cranial cruciate ligament injury, swimming could place too much twisting, torque and pressure through the joint and potentially lead to further damage.

·         Not as effective for improving joint extension

·         Can cause dogs to hollow through the neck and back causing too much strain on these areas

 Most dogs will benefit greatly from hydrotherapy; however, remember it is not a stand-alone treatment and should always be combined with physiotherapy and lifestyle/environmental changes. Lastly, always get advice from your Veterinary Surgeon before taking your animal for treatment.

 Danielle Everett, PgD, BSc

Veterinary Physiotherapist & Canine Hydrotherapist

Member of NAVP, NARCH & AHPR Tel: 01932 574300 Mobile: 07824552033

Email:     physiohydro@wearecoa.com Web: www.companyofanimals.com

 Company of Animals Pet Centre

Ruxbury Farm, St Ann’s Hill Road, Chertsey, Surrey, KT16 9NL

Resource Guarding

Resource guarding is what happens when a dog tries to control access to something it values highly. It is usually food, bones, toys, people or places, but it can be anything the dog finds it wants more than another dog or a human. 

Not all dogs will resource guard though; some will guard one thing or just in one particular situation, while others guard everything, everywhere! Many dogs don’t resource guard at all.

You might think that dogs in animal abuse cases, who have been starved, are more likely to guard food, but it isn’t always the case. Sometimes it is the dog who has food available all day long or who is overweight that guards their food. You won’t be surprised to learn that the dogs who do guard, do it with varying degrees of intensity.

Why do they do it?

It is something that has been a very successful strategy for dogs during their evolution. He who controls the resources, eats today or has shelter tonight! So, resource guarding is instinctual  and has provided an evolutionary advantage to some dogs over many years.

It also used to be a behaviour that was better understood and tolerated in the past. It used to be the case that most people would say “don’t go near that dog, he is eating/has a bone/sleeping (take your pick)”. I wonder why have we apparently lost that level of understanding of this behaviour?  Perhaps it is the increased number of multiple dog homes we have nowadays? Perhaps more frequent fights are occurring where two or more dogs in one household resource guards?

How do you recognise it?

Dogs resource guard by using defensive body language. Hunching over the item and showing the whites of their eyes is a good first indicator. They may put a paw on it indicating ‘this is mine!’ to whoever is approaching. They might run over, barge past you and grab an item – a bone or a toy – if another dog or person dares to approach it. 

It is generally explicitly clear that they want it for themselves, and they are not going to give it up easily.  If no one is likely to get injured (human or dog),  perhaps this behaviour can be viewed as, fair enough! Dogs have very little choice in their lives nowadays so why not let them keep something they value so much?

If it is safe and not going to do anyone any harm, I personally, would probably leave a dog to it. Dogs in my household seem to respect it and are perfectly happy to allow the resource guarder amongst them to get just on with it. The item is clearly not that valuable to the other dogs.  It is almost like they have personal preferences and are accommodating to each other. However, if a dog is unfairly resource guarding all the toys, all the bones etc, then yes, I would step in, to even things up. I won’t tolerate one dog bullying the others.  

What happens when the item being guarded is dangerous to them or valuable to me?

Sometimes though, it isn’t well tolerated by the other dogs in a household, or a dog resource guards from a human. What happens if the item is not safe for the dog to keep? It might be something inappropriate, like a tv remote, a child’s toy or worse, something that is downright dangerous for the dog – your dropped medication! Then you would want a way to safely take it away from the dog without getting injured or causing a huge rift in your relationship by having a ‘stand-off’ or confrontation with your dog.   

What not to do!

So, what could you do when you are facing a lip lifting or growling dog who now sees you as the person who is going to take away the most valuable thing they have ever had in their entire life? Well, the one thing you shouldn’t do is chase them or attempt to get the item away from them. If you do, you or someone else could get injured. Badly!

All that chasing and tugging teaches a dog is that it must be an ultra-valuable resource, really worth guarding, at all costs! Sadly, all you have done is reinforce that it is definitely worth guarding.  They may even think it is a fun game that you are happy to partake in and do it all the more just to get some additional attention from you.

Prevention is better than cure

My first important advice is to understand when your dog is likely to resource guard so you can take steps to prevent it. Write a list of all the occasions your dog guards’ items. Most people know about food, bones, chews and toys but it can also be dog beds (or your bed), clothing, chairs, your lap, an area under a table and even things with particular scents.  

Writing down what they guard and where they guard it, taking into consideration what time of day it is, are they hungry or full, previously relaxed or excited, at home or away from home, guards from other dogs or people, feeling ill or are in good health, in pain or not, will be extremely valuable information for you and any behaviourist you subsequently engage to help you.

If you know when it is likely to occur, then you can put in place measures to ensure it is either prevented altogether or at least minimised. Your plan may include clearing up the children’s toys before allowing your dog into the room, making sure the remote control is not left in a place accessible to your dog (this may be valuable as it will smell of you). All the socks and shoes are tidied away promptly, and medications are handled well away from your dog over a kitchen or bathroom worktop. Bones and chews can be picked up when your dog is safely away from them (perhaps while they are having their dinner or out on a walk). Prevention is absolutely vital!

What do you do if they get hold of something they shouldn’t have?

You will need a strategy to handle the times when you have not been able to prevent it and I would suggest the first thing you do is take a deep breath and keep calm. Then, walk away and say, ‘Let’s Go’. This means you walk into another room, for me it is the kitchen, where there is a treat jar full of my dogs’ favourite goodies.

Then ask for a well-practiced behaviour or ‘trick’ - a sit, a wave or a down, something you can cue them to do and then can reward them for doing it. As their reward, toss them a treat (in the direction furthest away from the thing they were resource guarding) and while they are distracted retrieving the treat, calmly walk the other way, close the door between you and your dog and pick up the item they discarded in their excitement to follow you.  Return and carry on with some more sits, downs, waves and shaking of paws.  It’s a fun time for them, they are getting rewarded, and the guarded item is almost certainly forgotten.

Being prepared for when prevention fails

Okay, this doesn’t happen without training. The ‘Let’s Go’ cue needs to be well practiced and practiced without the resource guarding actually happening. Don’t leave it until you have a situation you need to handle. It needs to be an instinctive reaction to your invitation to leave the room and your dog needs to know for sure that they will be getting an opportunity to perform an easy ‘trick’ for a huge reward.

By adding in a cued trick or behaviour, you are breaking the link to the guarding eliciting a reward (for those that were wondering about us just rewarding a dog for guarding).  It is a distraction technique that can get you out of all sorts of bother indoors or out. Teach this one now and think of it as an emergency technique included in your toolkit. 

Teaching an alternative ‘mutually exclusive’ behaviour

The other thing that worked wonderfully well for me was teaching my dog an alternative behaviour that he just couldn’t do while holding on to his resource guarded item (a mutually exclusive behaviour).  Firstly, I taught him how to catch a toy and eventually the game of ‘fetch’. I did spend quite a long time sitting with an open hand waiting for the exact moment he dropped it, just to be able to capture the moment with a ‘yes’, before throwing it back to him, showing him there was more fun in releasing the item than holding on to it.  I eventually added a cue, ‘drop’. 

Once he got the idea of catching, fetching and dropping, and realised how much fun it could be, he never resource guarded a toy ever again. Well, almost never! A brand-new toy might be guarded for the first 5 minutes but after that it was just like all the other toys in the house; meant for sharing and being caught in mid-air and not for holding on to it for hours at a time (and he did at first)!

Using an old ‘low value’ toy that your dog doesn’t guard when working on teaching catch, fetch and drop will help speed things up.  Other things you could teach is ‘leave it’’, ‘go to your bed’, ‘wave’, shake paw’, or ‘back-up’.

Seeking professional help

Of course, if you are worried about your dog biting (in this or any other situation), then you really should seek help and I recommend you always look for a positive, force-free, rewards-based behaviourist.

Please avoid anyone who tells you that you need to punish your dog for resource guarding (or anything else!). It won’t help and it can make things worse.  Remember it has been a successful strategy for dogs for many thousands of years and it is a perfectly natural instinct that some dogs utilise more than others.

Don’t allow dogs to sort it out amongst themselves (well, not all the time)

Dogs have a way of setting rules for themselves, for example, if one dog has a toy between his paws and is looking at it, then he should be able to keep it and the other dog should respect that. However, if the toy is between their paws and they are looking around, that usually indicates that the other dog is free to take it.  This is great communication and the last thing you want to do is intervene as you could just spoil their perfectly normal relationship.  

Finally, if you have more than one dog that resource guards, please don’t allow your dogs to ‘sort it out amongst themselves’, this could be terribly dangerous. They are unlikely to come up with a ‘pecking order’ no matter what your friend who ‘has had dogs all their life’ says! It is much more likely, they will fight! If you then try to intervene you will almost certainly get injured too.  

Living with that level of tension and possible intimidation in a household is stressful and can cause other behavioural issues and even stress related illnesses.  Much better to get professional help, well before you end up with expensive vets’ bills!

 June Pennell, ISCP.Dip.Canine.Prac., MCMA ISCP Principal

 Qualified behavioural help can be found at this link Practitioner | The ISCP

Holistic Care of your Senior Dog

It is inevitable that as our beloved dogs age their requirements will change and they start to show visible signs of slowing down and a reluctance to perform tasks which they once enjoyed.

Here are a few pointers to look out for and changes to put in place which can make a positive difference to your senior dogs quality of life and make the transition into their golden years a little easier.

Possibly the first sign that your dog is feeling his advancing years is loss of mobility, general stiffness or a reluctance to do certain activities.

Noticing that our dog is limping is an easy sign to spot but sometimes things can be much more subtle. They could suddenly refuse to jump in or out of the car, be constantly licking their legs, struggle to lift themselves off of their bed, exhibit uncharacteristic behaviours or are starting to no longer be clean in the house.

Weight reduction: Excess weight certainly makes it more difficult to improve or manage health complaints, particularly where joint pain is concerned. It will also mean that the positive lifestyle changes that you put in place are less successful.

“Fat is not inert, it contains precursors of inflammatory mediators, which is like petrol on an arthritic joint fire” H Capon - Canine Arthritis Management

Pain relief and Supplements Many people are reluctant to resort to veterinary prescribed medication for pain relief but they can be really useful in the overall management of pain and inflammation and if used alongside an entirely holistic approach you can often greatly reduce the use for drugs altogether. It is important that the dog is not in pain and is encouraged to gently exercise with minimal compensatory movement, this will allow muscle tone to improve which aids in supporting fragile joints, maintaining weight loss and increasing the range of movement in joints. Non-steroidal anti inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are not without their side effects in longer term use particularly where the kidneys, liver and stomach are concerned, so this is why it is really important to make many other lifestyle changes that give an overall improvement to health and not just rely on medication.

There are many supplements available for aging dogs which can help with mobility issues brought on by old age. It is important to start early particularly with a dog who has been very active or for working and competition dogs that have suffered more wear and tear over the years. Glucosamine, chondroitin and green lipped mussel based supplements have been popular for some time in helping to improve the mobility of joints but there are also other natural ingredients that are often added such as Boswellia serrata, msm (methylsulfonylmethane) and turmeric which are used to for their anti-inflammatory properties. The inclusion of Omega 3 fatty acids in the diet is a great idea for mobility, improved coat and skin and overall reduction in inflammation.

Suitable Flooring & Home Improvements: Inappropriate flooring such as laminate and slippery tiles can really take their toll on arthritic, frail or nervous dogs. They struggle to grip on the surface underneath them causing strain on their joints, risk of falls and it can really knock their confidence. Simple additions of rubber backed runners and mats in these areas can make a huge difference.

Keeping any excess hair in between the pads, well trimmed will prevent slipping and also very importantly, keep the nails short. I will explain why this is just so important in managing the arthritic dog in the blog https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/paw-and-nail-care

Use a car ramp It is so much kinder to your dogs joints and particularly to their shoulders than jumping in and out of the car, not to mention the potential strain to your own back if you lift the dog to and from the boot of a car.

Take time to get them used to going up and down the ramp on a lead and support them by cradling chest and hind end or use a suitable harness to guide them up if necessary until they get confident using it, make it fun by using treats, it will be worth the effort and invaluable as the dog gets older. Purchase one that you find easy to use and importantly has non slip footing and ideally it should have a raised border which can help blind dogs sense that they are close to the edge of the ramp whilst walking up it.  Read our blog for more advice on this: https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/news/teaching-your-dog-to-use-a-car-ramp

Dog beds Elderly dogs sleep a lot so providing a soft bed which offers protection and support for their joints is crucial. Some dogs love to stretch out and others curl up in a ball, so bear this in mind when choosing a bed. If you have the hard plastic beds make sure they are big enough so that the dog isn`t forced into an unnatural shape and that they have enough room to stretch out when needed, this is particularly important for neck and limb comfort. I find that senior dogs cope better with a raised bed, as this aids in getting up from a prone position. Not so high they have to jump down from it but raised enough to assist in getting on and off with ease. There are many new orthopaedic style dog beds that are really supportive and much more suitable than many blankets which end up entangled around the dogs legs and offer no support to the body.

Additional warmth can really help arthritic and elderly dogs, particularly in winter. The heat pads that are filled with wheat and placed into the microwave are very useful and for longer periods of constant heat, the Pet Remedy heat pad is excellent.

Exercise Requirements will start to change and this can become tricky in a multiple-dog household if you have an oldie that still thinks they can keep up with the younger dogs and as much as they enjoy themselves at the time the following days can see them really struggle because they have overdone it. There will come a time when the older dog needs to be walked separately so they get the benefit of exercise that is appropriate for them at their level of mobility.

Inappropriate exercise such as repeated ball throwing or vigorous tug-of-war games will have to become a thing of the past as they will undoubtedly undo any of the good work put in place with a holistic healthcare plan.

 If you have very elderly or frail dogs then all they need is a mooch around the garden or a very gentle short stroll, leaving them to dictate the pace. One of a dog’s greatest joys is sniffing and following a scent, so to prevent them from doing this is taking away one of their basic needs. It is so upsetting to see people dragging their elderly dogs behind them on a lead, it causes the dog stress and puts tremendous strain on their joints and muscles as they try and keep up with the handler.

Many dogs lose their confidence and feel vulnerable as they become frail or their eyesight and hearing fails, often becoming vocal or reactive, maybe for the first time in their life. See this as a sign that they are not coping well with the environment they are being exercised in and only allow familiar, calm dogs to interact with them or take the dog somewhere very quiet where they feel safe.

Complementary therapies are really helpful for the older dog and help keep them mobile. Massage and gentle body work is excellent and can pick up muscle weakness, compensatory movement, stiff joints and tight shortened muscles which when all the information is put together helps form a picture of how your dog is using their body and why that may be so. Ask your therapist for some homework you can do in between treatments. Heat pads are a good idea for very cold weather or use a soft fleece dog coat for additional warmth. Acupuncture is a fantastic treatment for the elderly dog and helps in managing arthritic conditions in particular. The fine needles are applied in very precise areas of the body to stimulate the release of endorphins which are the body’s own form of pain relief.

Age-related cognitive decline Is the canine equivalent of dementia which can vary in its symptoms from mild to severe. The symptoms can include staring into space, confusion at which way a door opens even though the dog may have used the same doorway for years, restlessness and becoming vocal at night, soiling in the house, and extreme changes in temperament towards people and other dogs. It is important to rule out other physical factors such as pain, infection, or sudden decline in eyesight for instance before coming up with a plan of action to manage the situation.

Although there is no cure for cognitive decline providing the dog with stimulating mind games such as hunting for treats and toys in the garden or using food puzzles and snuffle mats can help keep their minds active. The inclusion of antioxidants and omega-3 fatty acids in the diet will also help in some way to slow the decline down if the initial symptoms are spotted early.

Listed below are supplements that are targeted to support the needs of the aging dog and are all available on the Hedgerow Hounds shop.

The Golden Years herbal blend is handmade specifically to support the needs of senior dogs. https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/golden-years-1

Carnivore or Omnivore?

 Whether dogs are carnivores or omnivores seems to spark many a passionate debate.

All their anatomical attributes point to them being facultative (scavenging) carnivores. Which in general terms means that they are predominately meat eaters but they can, if needed survive on plant matter.

One way to explore what our dogs are designed to eat is to look at their anatomical and physiological features and what nature has given them in order to survive to the best of their abilities.  

Dogs come in a vast array of shapes, sizes and specific breed types but basically their anatomy and how their bodies work has barely changed over thousands of years. 

The natural wild survival and behavioural traits may have lessened over the centuries but there are still many attributes that our pet dogs have in common with their distant ancestors.

Scenting ability

Nature has given the dog the most exceptional sense of smell for a very good reason. Dogs dedicate 33% of their brain for the very important task of following a scent, which is essential if you need to track and kill your own dinner or seek out something tasty to scavenge.   

Their ability to recognise a scent is exceptionable and with 300 million olfactory receptors compared to our 5 million they are in a different league to most other mammals when it comes to scenting ability.

A dog can quickly use his nose to gain lots of information about his environment and also to detect species that have travelled through the surrounding area. They also have the physique to run at speed with their nose a matter of centimetres from the ground and to follow a scent over many miles, even when the “prey” has long since passed by.   

Dew Claws

Dogs have a pointed dew claw on the inner aspect of their front legs which does not come into contact with the ground until they are moving through the faster paces, then it provides a very important role.

Many people think that dew claws have no purpose, but if you have ever observed a dog eating a raw bone you will see that they dig the dew claw into the meat or sinew to position and prevent movement of the bone while eating.

Dew claws also have a vital role in stabilising the lower leg and in particular when cornering at speed, as there are five tendon attachments coming off it leading to muscles that prevent twisting of the limb when it comes into contact with the ground. This can prove essential in injury prevention when travelling over uneven terrain at high speed, such as the chasing of prey or needing to flee a source of danger.     

Head

Carnivores have very big jaws in relation to the size of their heads. Although they have reduced facial muscles to allow for the opening of the mouth, the primary muscles that operate the jaws are the large, developed temporalis muscle on their skull and combined with powerful neck and shoulder muscles, overpower, hold prey , crush bones and have the strength to carry away items that have been scavenged so they can be eaten in a safe environment.      

Teeth

The teeth of the dog are probably the biggest clue as to what canines are designed to eat. Like a Swiss army knife, each group of teeth have a very specific job to do in order to deal with capturing, puncturing and devouring almost a whole carcass. None of the structure or function of the dogs teeth and jaws lend themselves to eating or grinding cereals.  

Incisors are the small teeth at the front of the mouth, they are used to nibble and strip away sinew and meat from the bone.

Canine teeth also referred to as fangs or cuspids are the long pointed teeth used for holding and puncturing flesh. There are two canines in the upper jaw (maxilla) and two in the lower jaw (mandible). They are single rooted teeth and the upper canine tends to be longer and more pointed than the lower.

Premolars are designed to crush and slice due to their uneven surface and scissor like action. There is a modified molar called a Carnassial which you will see as the largest and most jagged premolar. It has three roots and is a heavy-duty tool to crush bones and meat. A dog will often tilt their head to one side to gain full use of this tooth when gnawing on a bone or to slice through a large chunk of meat for easier swallowing. The top jaw has two molars each side and the bottom jaw has three which are used for crushing.    

 Mouth

Dogs do not have any side to side action in their jaws so unlike ourselves or herbivores they can’t grind their food before swallowing. Their jaw is a simple hinge joint and has a chomping up and down movement and a strong, muscular tongue which can manipulate food to where it can be crushed by the powerful jaws.

They do not possess any salivary amylase, which is a specialised digestive enzyme that herbivores and omnivores produce in their mouth and together with the chewing and grinding action of the molars starts to immediately break down starchy carbohydrates before we even swallow.      

The oesophagus is capable of allowing the passage of large pieces of meat, after all the dog isn't capable of breaking the meat down by chewing or salivary amylase, so it needs to get the food to where that can happen, which is in the stomach.

Stomach and Digestive tract

Dogs have a short digestive tract so they can expel waste quickly which is particularly important if they have been eating food that is covered in bacteria.

We have all seen dogs eat the most disgusting and decaying of items, which if eaten by ourselves would have us omitted to hospital, yet at worst they may have a slight upset tummy for 24 hours.

They have an incredibly strong stomach acid of around pH1 which is needed to break down large amounts of protein, to dissolve bone and as a protection against any decaying food that may have been scavenged. The walls of their stomach are covered in a thick mucosa to provide protection from the corrosive acid and to literally stop the stomach from digesting itself.     

Dogs produce amylase in their pancreas which is passed into the blood stream to assist in digesting carbohydrates.

All the leading dog food companies state that dogs have no nutritional need for carbohydrates in their diet, yet they appear in very large amounts in the majority of processed foods.

Recent studies have shown that there has been some adaptation over the years in dogs’ ability to digest starch. One study comparing wolves to our domestic dogs showed that dogs of today had between 4 – 30 copies of a gene code for amylase while wolves had 2 copies. This shows that dogs may now find it easier to digest carbohydrates, but with such a large gap between 4 and 30 copies it also shows that some dogs will not thrive as well as others on a high carbohydrate diet. It comes back to the importance of treating a dog as an individual and just like ourselves, what is ideal for one person can be very detrimental to the health of another.   

Behaviour traits

Dogs still exhibit some of the behaviour traits of their ancestors and in certain breeds this will be particularly noticeable.  

Man has taken full advantage of these natural behaviours and over many hundreds of years, through selective breeding have created companions to work alongside them. This can be anything from using their natural herding instinct to manage sheep, tracking and bringing down prey to feed the owners family and retrieving shot game.

Many dogs are keen diggers and will bury food and in particular bones as if storing them for a time when food is scarce.  

Heightened senses and prey drive

All their senses are heightened, eyesight, hearing and in particular sense of smell so they can continually analyse who is approachable and where any potential food source may be.     

This strong prey drive is still noticeable today in the gundog, terrier and hound groups who are just primed to follow a scent or in the case of sight hounds to chase sudden movement.      

Instinctively driven to eat seasonal berries, grasses and herbivore droppings.

If dogs are given a large, natural environment to wander over it is surprising how much time they spend exploring, sniffing, experimenting what is edible and generally foraging. This can include a particular type of grass, seasonal berries, herbs, plant roots or tubers, clay soil or rotting wood. This could be for medicinal use, to ease a stomach upset, rid the body of parasites, provide additional fibre and moisture or to top up on minerals that are lacking in their diet.

Studies of wild canine populations demonstrate the wide variety of food stuffs that they will eat over the changing seasons. This is also dependant on location and if there is access to fallen fruit, nuts, berries, fish, small mammals or waste food from human inhabitation nearby in which to supplement the diet. 

Dogs particularly favour the droppings of herbivores such as horses, cows and deer. Although this is only digested, fermented grass and possibly hay in the case of domesticated animals, it does provide enzymes, fibre, moisture and have probiotic qualities.

What are dogs?

Set aside for a moment your views on what dogs should be eating and look instead at what Canis Lupus Familiaris, aka our dogs, actually are?

They are highly intelligent, inquisitive, scavengers, exploring their world primarily by scent. They investigate aroma, taste, texture and edibility with all their senses. They are foragers, trackers, diggers, chewers, adventurers, opportunists and hunters. They are playful, problem solvers that adapt to their environment and not only the food source that is available at that given time but also the volume and frequency of that food.

Nature has given them the anatomy and physiology to eat a vast array of food types and if it was absolutely necessary, the ability to track, catch or at least scavenge their own dinner.  

Baring all this in mind, are we not doing them a major disservice by serving up the same beige pellets in a bowl, every single day for a lifetime?

I am certainly not suggesting that you encourage or allow your dog to chase and catch wildlife, but could you offer some more enrichment at mealtimes?

This could be by adding a little steamed or pureed vegetables into their meals, a sprinkling of herbs or blackberries, offering some appropriate fresh cooked food, rotating the flavour or type of food you offer, the use of interactive food toys, snuffle mats, games in the garden that involve tracking and finding their favourite treats or food. This will make meals times more than just filling an empty stomach and go some way to enriching the life of a highly sensory being that is our beloved dog.

Eggs are great for our Dogs !

Either fed raw or lightly cooked, eggs are a valuable addition to our dogs diet.

Eggs provide a high quality, complete source of amino acids which are the building blocks of protein.

A good source of vitamin A, B12, Riboflavin, Iron, Folate, Zinc, Selenium, Fatty acids, Choline, Fat soluble vitamin E,D and K and provide the ideal ratio of calcium and phosphorous, if the shell is also fed.

Just one egg will provide 13 essential vitamins and minerals, including lutein which is essential for eye health. Egg whites contain a substance called avidin which affects the uptake of biotin, but the egg yolk has high levels of biotin. So, unless you are feeding just the egg whites on a regular basis rather than the whole egg there shouldn’t be an issue.

Egg shell can be used as a calcium supplement, and the inner membrane of the egg contains an abundance of nutrients to support joint health. This opaque membrane will provide collagen, elastin, glucosamine, chondroitin and hyaluronic acid.

Feeding a selection of eggs including chicken, duck, quail and guinea fowl will offer a broader range of nutrients. One thing that is essential, is that the eggs must be free range and preferably organic as these are higher in animal welfare as well as offering higher levels of the anti-inflammatory Omega 3 fatty acids. These free range birds will have benefitted from a natural lifestyle of foraging, had sunlight on their backs and lived a more relaxed life.

The eggs pictured are from a local farm shop where the hens & ducks can be seen roaming free. The eggs are higher in nutrition as the birds have access to a natural lifestyle of foraging and I know that the shells haven`t been sprayed with chemicals unlike many supermarket eggs, which is important if you are going to feed the shells.
Duck eggs have a larger yolk to white ratio and are higher in protein, fat and contain more Omega 3.

Quail eggs although tiny, have large amounts of vitamin B1 and 5 times as much iron and potassium as hens eggs. Their protein value is 13% where as hens eggs are 11%. Quail eggs rarely cause allergies or sensitivities so worth considering if eggs normally cause problems.

Your dog will benefit from eating free range organic eggs 2-3 times a week.

Eggs can be offered whole, either raw or lightly cooked or broken onto your dogs usual food. If you would rather cook them then a scrambled or boiled egg very lightly cooked will be well received.

There are almost 200 different breeds of chickens in the world, and one hen will lay anything between 250 and 300 eggs a year !

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