Is Your Dog a Fussy Eater?

For the majority of dogs feeding time is the highlight of the day and they leave their bowls squeaky clean.

However, there are some dogs that find the transition from dried to raw food a bit challenging, as it is such a dramatic change in moisture content, texture, aroma and flavour.

Many kibble and tinned foods have flavour and appetite enhancers added, which can make raw food seem a little bland in comparison and, combined with an unfamiliar texture, a bit off putting for some picky eaters.

There are a number of ways that you can encourage shy or fussy eaters to clean their bowls and look forward to feeding times. This does only apply to genuinely fussy eaters and not dogs that are unwell. Dogs will often fast if they are feeling off colour, so it is important to not force them to eat. If your dog is refusing food, bone broth and more crucially water, after 2 days, then it is important to contact your vet to rule out any serious health issues.

Your dog may also be suffering from reflux immediately after eating which makes them reluctant to eat in anticipation of the discomfort that follows. Some signs include licking front legs, appearing to lick the air, retching or regurgitation, which is usually white and frothy. As well as taking note of what your dogs has just eaten a herbal blend which is very effective to ease reflux is Digest & Rest https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/digest-and-rest

Here are a few ideas that may help dogs that are reluctant to eat:

It is important that your dog doesn’t feel pressured or that they are being watched. It can be frustrating as you are literally willing them to eat, but its vital to give them peace and quiet and not rush them.

For dogs new to raw food and that seem hesitant to eat, this could be due to the unfamiliar smell and texture. To release the aroma and flavour in order to tempt them, you can quickly flash fry small pieces of raw food in a pan then add into the meal, and sometimes a tinned pilchard mashed in or a spoon of tinned meat usually does the trick.

Bone broth can also be too tasty to resist. You can serve it warm or defrost bone broth cubes and add to the food.

There is a nutritious blend in the Hedgerow Hounds range that few dogs can resist and will tempt the fussiest of eaters. It can be found on the website under Greens, Seeds & Superfoods https://www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk/products/greens-seeds

For the majority of dogs, but much more so for fussy eaters, It is important to offer raw food at room temperature as they really dislike anything cold or chilled. You can do this by letting the food sit for 15 minutes before use, drizzling a little boiling water over the food and stirring in, just to take the chill off.

Offer tiny meals in bitesize pieces, as presenting a whole bowl of food can be overwhelming and cause a shy dog to back off.

Experiment with different bowls and plates. Some dogs prefer to eat from a plate or shallow bowl and others are fearful of stainless steel due to the noise it makes on a hard floor. Always make sure that both the dog and the bowl are on a non-slip surface and they are not worried by the possibility of slipping and falling.

If you have an elderly dog that has suddenly become a picky eater, have you considered that they may have failing eyesight, tooth pain, experiencing discomfort as they reach down for the bowl, that they are eating on a slippery surface? Raised food and water bowls placed on non-slip mats can be really helpful in these situations. As our dogs reach their senior years their sense of smell and taste decreases, so this could be another reason for losing their pervious excitement at meals times.

Game meats such as duck, venison and pheasant can be a little too strong in taste for the picky feeder so it is best to avoid those when initially transitioning to a raw diet. The same can apply to offal, so if this is the case opt for offal free mince and very gradually add in tiny amounts of liver.

Dogs that refuse raw liver will often be very interested in lightly cooked liver, as cooking changes the texture and releases the aroma.

Caroline Hearn MICHT. Dip ICAT. MIAAT. Dip. ISCP Raw Nutrition

Sports, Remedial & Holistic Massage Therapist

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk

Top 5 Herbs for Your Dog

For centuries animals have relied upon the medicinal powers of plants to assist in the healing of many aliments. They were instinctively drawn to herbs, grasses, seeds and roots in woodland and open ground to help everything from parasite control to intestinal discomfort.

Adding fresh, homegrown herbs to your dog’s meals can provide many benefits. They offer a gentle, cleansing and balancing effect to the body, provide phytonutrients and fibre, which in turn benefit the gut bacteria and add moisture to the diet of dogs that are fed dried food.

If you can pick a few herbs then immediately prepare and add them to your dog’s food, the nutritional benefits will be at their peak. Fed like this even a little goes a long way.

The herbs and wild ingredients mentioned below can be brought as young plants, sown as seeds, or foraged for.  

Even a sunny windowsill or balcony can be used to grow a few herbs. They just need a little well drained soil, water, some sun and a bit of care to give you a huge amount back.

Here are some of my favourites, which you can enjoy yourself and share with your dog.  

Parsley

If you only have room for one herb, then parsley would be the one.

The most common varieties are curly and flat leaf, and the leaf, stem and root can be used. The flat leaf parsley is more closely related to the wild species.

It is traditionally used to support digestive and urinary tract issues and as a breath freshener. It is high in antioxidants such as beta-carotene and lycopene which help fight inflammation and used to support arthritic conditions.

Parsley is rich in vitamin A, C, B1, B2, K, calcium, riboflavin, potassium, iron, magnesium, manganese, niacin, phosphorous, fibre and chlorophyll.

Very finely chop the leaves and stalks or add into a blender with your dog’s normal vegetables. As a rough guide my Labradors would have a heaped tablespoon each, added in with their vegetables most days over the Summer.

 Thyme

Thyme has antimicrobial, expectorant and astringent qualities and can help soothe a cough or cold by loosening mucus.

Thyme has quite a strong flavour and aroma compared with the other herbs listed, so would be used a little more sparingly. This is one to introduce initially in tiny amounts to see if your dog likes the taste. They may however just enjoy the scent if you crush a few leaves and then offer your hand to sniff if they wish. The stems are generally too woody to use so just pick off a few of the tiny leaves instead.  

Dandelion

The humble dandelion is not only a friend to pollinators it is also a very good addition to our own and our dog’s diet.

The leaf has affinities with the liver, gall bladder and kidneys and act as a gentle blood cleanser, laxative and bitter tonic. Bitter tasting ingredients promote salivation which in turn improves digestion. Traditionally dandelion would be used alongside burdock root for a powerful combination.

The leaves are a rich source of vitamin A, D, K, B complex, Iron, Manganese, Phosphorous, Potassium and the flowers are a good source of Lecithin.

We can add the leaves and petals to salads or use in the same way as spinach. In spring and early summer, I pick and wash dandelion leaves and add to the dog’s vegetable blend, along with parsley, courgette, chard and a few lettuce leaves. This is all put in the blender with a tiny splash of water and whizzed to a thick smoothie consistency and makes up to 15% of the meal.

Nettle

The nettle is seen as “the enemy” to many gardeners, yet it not only provides a haven for wildlife it is also packed with nutrition and makes fantastic teas, soups, and pesto.

Rich in Iron, vitamin A, C, D and B complex, Silica, Calcium, Phosphorous, Magnesium, Beta-carotene and Potassium.

Only the tops of the nettles should be picked and used from early spring to around the end of May. As the plant matures it develops tiny crystalline particles which irritate the urinary tract and kidneys.

Nettles have natural antihistamine properties and can also be used as a coat rinse.

The process of drying or cooking the nettles neutralises their sting, although you will need gloves in order to pick them or they will definitely fight back!

Picked nettles can be dried for a couple of days on paper in the sun or if the whole stem is cut, hang upside down to dry in small bundles and just use the leaves from the tips. Once dried you can crumble them easily with your fingers.

 Fennel

Fennel is similar to dill in its appearance but has a strong aniseed scent and grows large fennel bulbs. The delicate, feathery leaves, seeds and root can be used and primarily taken to improve digestion, ease bloating, reflux, mild tummy ache and increase milk flow in nursing mothers. It is rich in vitamin C, A, calcium, iron and potassium. 

 Safety:

When harvesting any herb or wild ingredient there are a few things to consider so you can safely use them.

Firstly, it is essential to be able to accurately identify what you are picking. This can take a little time and the use of a good identification book is extremely helpful.

Always forage away from roadsides and arable crops, which will no doubt have been sprayed with chemicals or exposed to pollutants.

Caroline Hearn MICHT. Dip ICAT. MIAAT

Canine & Equine Sports & Remedial Massage and Holistic Therapist

www.hedgerowhounds.co.uk

Resource Guarding

Resource guarding is what happens when a dog tries to control access to something it values highly. It is usually food, bones, toys, people or places, but it can be anything the dog finds it wants more than another dog or a human. 

Not all dogs will resource guard though; some will guard one thing or just in one particular situation, while others guard everything, everywhere! Many dogs don’t resource guard at all.

You might think that dogs in animal abuse cases, who have been starved, are more likely to guard food, but it isn’t always the case. Sometimes it is the dog who has food available all day long or who is overweight that guards their food. You won’t be surprised to learn that the dogs who do guard, do it with varying degrees of intensity.

Why do they do it?

It is something that has been a very successful strategy for dogs during their evolution. He who controls the resources, eats today or has shelter tonight! So, resource guarding is instinctual  and has provided an evolutionary advantage to some dogs over many years.

It also used to be a behaviour that was better understood and tolerated in the past. It used to be the case that most people would say “don’t go near that dog, he is eating/has a bone/sleeping (take your pick)”. I wonder why have we apparently lost that level of understanding of this behaviour?  Perhaps it is the increased number of multiple dog homes we have nowadays? Perhaps more frequent fights are occurring where two or more dogs in one household resource guards?

How do you recognise it?

Dogs resource guard by using defensive body language. Hunching over the item and showing the whites of their eyes is a good first indicator. They may put a paw on it indicating ‘this is mine!’ to whoever is approaching. They might run over, barge past you and grab an item – a bone or a toy – if another dog or person dares to approach it. 

It is generally explicitly clear that they want it for themselves, and they are not going to give it up easily.  If no one is likely to get injured (human or dog),  perhaps this behaviour can be viewed as, fair enough! Dogs have very little choice in their lives nowadays so why not let them keep something they value so much?

If it is safe and not going to do anyone any harm, I personally, would probably leave a dog to it. Dogs in my household seem to respect it and are perfectly happy to allow the resource guarder amongst them to get just on with it. The item is clearly not that valuable to the other dogs.  It is almost like they have personal preferences and are accommodating to each other. However, if a dog is unfairly resource guarding all the toys, all the bones etc, then yes, I would step in, to even things up. I won’t tolerate one dog bullying the others.  

What happens when the item being guarded is dangerous to them or valuable to me?

Sometimes though, it isn’t well tolerated by the other dogs in a household, or a dog resource guards from a human. What happens if the item is not safe for the dog to keep? It might be something inappropriate, like a tv remote, a child’s toy or worse, something that is downright dangerous for the dog – your dropped medication! Then you would want a way to safely take it away from the dog without getting injured or causing a huge rift in your relationship by having a ‘stand-off’ or confrontation with your dog.   

What not to do!

So, what could you do when you are facing a lip lifting or growling dog who now sees you as the person who is going to take away the most valuable thing they have ever had in their entire life? Well, the one thing you shouldn’t do is chase them or attempt to get the item away from them. If you do, you or someone else could get injured. Badly!

All that chasing and tugging teaches a dog is that it must be an ultra-valuable resource, really worth guarding, at all costs! Sadly, all you have done is reinforce that it is definitely worth guarding.  They may even think it is a fun game that you are happy to partake in and do it all the more just to get some additional attention from you.

Prevention is better than cure

My first important advice is to understand when your dog is likely to resource guard so you can take steps to prevent it. Write a list of all the occasions your dog guards’ items. Most people know about food, bones, chews and toys but it can also be dog beds (or your bed), clothing, chairs, your lap, an area under a table and even things with particular scents.  

Writing down what they guard and where they guard it, taking into consideration what time of day it is, are they hungry or full, previously relaxed or excited, at home or away from home, guards from other dogs or people, feeling ill or are in good health, in pain or not, will be extremely valuable information for you and any behaviourist you subsequently engage to help you.

If you know when it is likely to occur, then you can put in place measures to ensure it is either prevented altogether or at least minimised. Your plan may include clearing up the children’s toys before allowing your dog into the room, making sure the remote control is not left in a place accessible to your dog (this may be valuable as it will smell of you). All the socks and shoes are tidied away promptly, and medications are handled well away from your dog over a kitchen or bathroom worktop. Bones and chews can be picked up when your dog is safely away from them (perhaps while they are having their dinner or out on a walk). Prevention is absolutely vital!

What do you do if they get hold of something they shouldn’t have?

You will need a strategy to handle the times when you have not been able to prevent it and I would suggest the first thing you do is take a deep breath and keep calm. Then, walk away and say, ‘Let’s Go’. This means you walk into another room, for me it is the kitchen, where there is a treat jar full of my dogs’ favourite goodies.

Then ask for a well-practiced behaviour or ‘trick’ - a sit, a wave or a down, something you can cue them to do and then can reward them for doing it. As their reward, toss them a treat (in the direction furthest away from the thing they were resource guarding) and while they are distracted retrieving the treat, calmly walk the other way, close the door between you and your dog and pick up the item they discarded in their excitement to follow you.  Return and carry on with some more sits, downs, waves and shaking of paws.  It’s a fun time for them, they are getting rewarded, and the guarded item is almost certainly forgotten.

Being prepared for when prevention fails

Okay, this doesn’t happen without training. The ‘Let’s Go’ cue needs to be well practiced and practiced without the resource guarding actually happening. Don’t leave it until you have a situation you need to handle. It needs to be an instinctive reaction to your invitation to leave the room and your dog needs to know for sure that they will be getting an opportunity to perform an easy ‘trick’ for a huge reward.

By adding in a cued trick or behaviour, you are breaking the link to the guarding eliciting a reward (for those that were wondering about us just rewarding a dog for guarding).  It is a distraction technique that can get you out of all sorts of bother indoors or out. Teach this one now and think of it as an emergency technique included in your toolkit. 

Teaching an alternative ‘mutually exclusive’ behaviour

The other thing that worked wonderfully well for me was teaching my dog an alternative behaviour that he just couldn’t do while holding on to his resource guarded item (a mutually exclusive behaviour).  Firstly, I taught him how to catch a toy and eventually the game of ‘fetch’. I did spend quite a long time sitting with an open hand waiting for the exact moment he dropped it, just to be able to capture the moment with a ‘yes’, before throwing it back to him, showing him there was more fun in releasing the item than holding on to it.  I eventually added a cue, ‘drop’. 

Once he got the idea of catching, fetching and dropping, and realised how much fun it could be, he never resource guarded a toy ever again. Well, almost never! A brand-new toy might be guarded for the first 5 minutes but after that it was just like all the other toys in the house; meant for sharing and being caught in mid-air and not for holding on to it for hours at a time (and he did at first)!

Using an old ‘low value’ toy that your dog doesn’t guard when working on teaching catch, fetch and drop will help speed things up.  Other things you could teach is ‘leave it’’, ‘go to your bed’, ‘wave’, shake paw’, or ‘back-up’.

Seeking professional help

Of course, if you are worried about your dog biting (in this or any other situation), then you really should seek help and I recommend you always look for a positive, force-free, rewards-based behaviourist.

Please avoid anyone who tells you that you need to punish your dog for resource guarding (or anything else!). It won’t help and it can make things worse.  Remember it has been a successful strategy for dogs for many thousands of years and it is a perfectly natural instinct that some dogs utilise more than others.

Don’t allow dogs to sort it out amongst themselves (well, not all the time)

Dogs have a way of setting rules for themselves, for example, if one dog has a toy between his paws and is looking at it, then he should be able to keep it and the other dog should respect that. However, if the toy is between their paws and they are looking around, that usually indicates that the other dog is free to take it.  This is great communication and the last thing you want to do is intervene as you could just spoil their perfectly normal relationship.  

Finally, if you have more than one dog that resource guards, please don’t allow your dogs to ‘sort it out amongst themselves’, this could be terribly dangerous. They are unlikely to come up with a ‘pecking order’ no matter what your friend who ‘has had dogs all their life’ says! It is much more likely, they will fight! If you then try to intervene you will almost certainly get injured too.  

Living with that level of tension and possible intimidation in a household is stressful and can cause other behavioural issues and even stress related illnesses.  Much better to get professional help, well before you end up with expensive vets’ bills!

 June Pennell, ISCP.Dip.Canine.Prac., MCMA ISCP Principal

 Qualified behavioural help can be found at this link Practitioner | The ISCP